The city that is so used to holding a vada pav as a go-to meal, now has another option, ka’ak, the purse bread of Lebanon.
SunBun, which was launched in January by a Lebanese couple, Zein and Nathalie Soubra specialises inka’ak, a traditional ring-shaped bread from Lebanon. The couple, who has been visiting Mumbai for work for over 15 years decided to bring the bread to India, and rename it SunBun since the shape is reminiscent of a sunlit halo, enveloping an array of fillings — crisp falafel, creamy hummus, velvety smooth labneh, savoury potato, cheese and crisp vegetables.
Within four months of the launch, SunBun already has two outlets — one a quick grab-and-go in Powai, the other a five-seater in Versova. They also have a cloud kitchen in Marol, Andheri.
Except for Za’atar, a Middle Eastern herb imported from Lebanon, everything else is made in-house in Mumbai using locally sourced ingredients at SunBun’s cloud kitchen in Marol, Mumbai.
As we enter the Versova outlet, the exposed brick walls sport photographs of life, heritage, and traditions of Lebanon. One stands out: it shows a stack of ka’ak breads carefully arranged and sold on a bicycle akin to the fresh and hot pav (bread) sold on bicycles every morning in Mumbai.
Nathalie says, “Ka’ak is commonly found on the bustling streets of Beirut, mostly sold by street vendors on a bicycle. It is crafted from dough rolled into ropes and skillfully shaped into sun-like discs, topped with sesame seeds.” She adds that in Lebanon, the bread is typically filled with zaatar, sumac, cheese, labneh, hummus, falafel, and an array of other flavorful options.
Traditionally, this bread is crafted from whole wheat flour, eggs, sugar, and olive oil, with sesame seeds sprinkled on top. “However, in India, we have introduced an egg-free version, incorporating whole wheat flour, olive oil, and date syrup which is then topped with sesame seeds. It has a slightly crusty taste on the outside and has a great airy crumb on the inside,” explains Nathalie.
From Lebanon to Mumbai
Zein says that SunBun encourages cultural exchange with every dish. “As Mumbaikars savour the SunBun experience, they connect with the heart and soul of Lebanon,” he says. Inspired by the inviting charm of traditional Lebanese houses, the SunBun outlets are designed with brick.
Speaking of their expansion plans, Nathalie says, “In India, the sky is the limit! We have established a good clientele in the suburbs of Mumbai and now we are headed to South Mumbai. People from Surat, Chennai, and Pune have also approached us to take SunBun to these cities.”
Authentic flavours
To beat the heat, we start with Beirut lemonade, a simple drink made with lemon zest and mint as the core ingredient. The hummus SunBun is satisfying, with every bite offering a mouthful of creamy chickpea hummus blended with the radish, lettuce, black olives, bell pepper and red spicy chutney, all set in bread that is soft inside, and crisp outside.
Next we try Manoucheh, the second most popular street food in Lebanon. Here ka’ak bread is served like a pizza with zaatar and a spicy red sauce.
We also try their simple, healthy fatouch salad, which features freshly chopped vegetables dressed with SunBun chips. Nathalie says it appears frequently on Lebanese festive tables.
For dessert, there is fluffy vegan Lebanese semolina turmeric cake which is perfectly sweetened.
SunBun is open from 10am to 10pm on all days. There are branches at Powai, Versova and Andheri. Here a meal for two Price two costs ₹500.